About the Fret Calculator
This tool places frets on a guitar, bass, banjo, mandolin, ukulele, or any other fretted instrument using the same math that luthiers and instrument manufacturers rely on: the equal temperament (12th root of two) formula. Give it a scale length and a target fret number, and it returns the exact distance from the nut, the distance from the bridge, the width of that individual fret, and the octave check point.
The formula
For a scale length L (the vibrating string length measured from the nut to the bridge/saddle) and fret number n, the distance from the nut to that fret is:
d = L − L / 2(n/12)
Equivalently, the distance from the bridge back to fret n is simply L / 2(n/12). This formula comes from 12-tone equal temperament tuning, where each half-step (fret) raises the pitch by a constant frequency ratio of the twelfth root of two, approximately 1.059463. Because frequency is inversely proportional to vibrating string length, each fret's remaining distance to the bridge is a constant fraction, 1/2(1/12) (about 94.39%), of the previous fret's remaining distance — in other words, each fret closes roughly 5.61% of the remaining gap to the bridge.
Why the 12th fret matters
Because an octave is 12 equal half-steps, 2(12/12) = 2 exactly. That means the distance from the nut to the 12th fret is always precisely half the scale length, on any instrument, regardless of string count or tuning. Builders use this as a fast sanity check: measure nut-to-12th-fret, double it, and compare against the intended scale length. If they don't match, something in the layout is off.
Typical scale lengths
- Fender-style electric guitar: 25.5 in (648 mm)
- Gibson-style electric guitar: 24.75 in (629 mm)
- Classical/nylon-string guitar: about 25.6-26 in (650-660 mm)
- Bass guitar (long scale): 34 in (864 mm)
- Ukulele: roughly 13 in (soprano) to 21 in (baritone)
- Mandolin: about 13.9-14 in (350-356 mm)
How to use the result
Measure your scale length first (nut edge to the exact point where the string breaks over the bridge/saddle), enter it, then step through fret numbers one at a time if you are marking a full fretboard by hand. Many builders use a printed or CNC fret-slotting template rather than measuring each fret manually, since compounded rounding error from a ruler can throw off intonation over 20+ frets — but the underlying math is exactly this formula either way.